Cusco, Peru - Heart of Inca Empire

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The approach to the Cusco airport was through a shallow valley with low hills on either side.  This was in sharp contrast to the rugged peaks we would later see in the Sacred Valley and at Machu Picchu.  It was an amazing experience to fly over an area where a mighty empire once flourished.

Cusco is located more than 11,000 feet above sea level.  We began to feel the effects of the high altitude almost immediately after stepping off the plane.  Symptoms can vary from mild to severe, and even become life threatening.  In our case it was mostly shortness of breath, dull headaches and queasy stomachs.  Locals fight the effects by chewing coco leaves while most travelers and tourists steep coco leaves in hot water, and drink the brew to ease the effects of altitude sickness.  Within the country chewing the coco leaves or using them to make tea is highly encouraged.  However, it is highly discouraged to depart the country with any of the leaves, as people may use them for purposes other than medicinal.

Cusco is the largest city with an airport near Machu Picchu, and offers tourists and travelers a wide array of accommodations from very high-end to extreme basic.  Everyone from royalty to hardcore backpackers can find lodging to meet their needs.  In addition, there's no shortage of restaurants throughout the city, especially in the established tourist districts.  Our collective tastes were either vegetarian or vegan (eats nothing that has a mother), and we found several great options that provided plentiful, cheap fare.  For example, we ate at one restaurant numerous times that offered a three-course lunchtime special for $1.50 USD per person.  I have no idea how they made money, but our meager budget appreciated the low cost meal options.  They had a booming business with a steady stream of customers at lunch and dinner.  We even met two fellow backpackers from the States at the restaurant, and have maintained contact ever since.

Cusco was once home to the mighty and far-reaching Inca Empire.  It was first settled in the 13th century and flourished throughout Peru and spread into other areas that are now modern-day Argentina and Ecuador.  The Spanish invaded Cusco in 1533 and like the Aztecs and Mayans, the Incas were no match for the Spaniards firepower and were soon overtaken.  Sadly, many of the magnificent temples and houses were dismantled to build churches, cathedrals and homes for the invaders.

Before visiting Machu Picchu, we hired a taxi driver for two days to take us to some of the Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley.  Traveling by bus was not practical and paying for pre-set tours was too expensive.  Having our own driver gave us more flexibility and personal attention.  Eugenio, our driver, had driven taxis for many years and put both of his children through the university; no small feat given the wages of local cabbies.

The Sacred Valley stretches for many miles and is flanked by mountains with a river running through the middle.  The mountain peaks are the "original" skyscrapers and reached to the heavens without limits.  Several were snow-capped year round, something we had not expected.  Our driver took us through small villages and up steep, winding dirt roads to ruins perched precariously on the side of the mountains.  Eugenio could trace his ancestry to Incan nobility.  He was an excellent tour guide and could speak several languages including the Incan dialect Quechua, which had a unique, somewhat guttural sound.  Several months later we read another traveling family's web site and learned they had also used Eugenio.  Yes, it is a small world after all!

If rocks were oil, Peru would be a world leader in petroleum production.  Of all the places we visited, there were few locations that compared to the sheer volume of rock.  Even more amazing was how the Incas took the raw materials they had to work with and shaped massive rocks and boulders to fit together so perfectly that no mortar was needed.  The precision is so exact that it was impossible (and I tried) to slid a piece of paper in between the exquisitely placed gigantic stones - even after consulting several thesauruses, I could not find a word worthy of describing the "hard, solid, non-metallic mineral matter" we saw, touched and were in awe of.

The Incan culture revolved around nature, and it was incorporated into nearly every structure they built.  For example, near the main square of Cusco a church was constructed on the base of a former Incan temple.  Aside from being impressed by its form and function, at first glance the foundation made of enormous beautifully finished stones would not have drawn much attention.  However, it was not until a local pointed out that upon closer examination, it was possible to see a jaguar and serpent had been subtly incorporated into the formation.   Without his assistance, we would never have seen the animals that were so much apart of Inca tradition.  It was a great example of "being hidden in plain view".

We learned another valuable lesson in Cusco . . . always check the change you receive when using large currency notes.  We needed to get back to our hotel late one night and was approached by a taxi cab driver offering to give us a ride.  I told him I only had large currency and asked if he could make change; no problem he said.  The street in front of our hotel was steep, single-lane and just wide enough for small cars to drive on.  To keep traffic moving it was necessary to exit the taxi quickly, pay the fare, get the change and move out of the way or drivers would immediately begin blowing their horns.  I handed the cabbie a 50 Soles note (about $20 USD) and he gave me two 20s and some coins.  My instincts told me the money did not feel right, but horns starting blaring and he was off before I could question him.  The next day, when I tried buying water near the hotel, I was informed the money was counterfeit.  I was the perfect sucker and my "lesson learned" (literally) cost nearly $20 USD, but it never happened again.

If Cusco was the heart of the Inca Empire, then Machu Picchu was the crown jewel of the once vast nation-state.  For me, it was the place I most wanted to visit during our trek through South America.  However, something occurred that nearly caused us to miss it entirely.  More about that next week, and the incredible experience we had at the fabled city in the clouds.

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