The Australian Outback, More Than a Desert

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Australia and the United States are roughly the same size; however, that's where the similarities end.  For starters, the majority of the country is nearly all desert, and the vast majority of the population lives almost entirely along the coasts.  Second, only 22.5 million people live there, which is less than 10-percent of the U.S. population.  This massive piece of real estate is a continent, country and island all rolled into one.

After arriving in Darwin at the northern tip of the country, we rented a hippy van and drove into the interior; also fondly known as the Outback.  If red sand were oil, Australia would probably dwarf the output of Saudi Arabia.  And similar to the desserts of the Middle East, there are many oasises throughout the Outback where all manner of life flourishes.  It may not seem obvious at first blush, but a little patience and time will yield an amazing array of flora and fauna in an otherwise hostile environment.

As with all regions below the equator, the seasons are reversed from the Northern Hemisphere.  We were there in July 2009, which meant it was their winter and also high season.  That fact was made painfully clear based on the over-the-top cost for nearly everything.  January and February are considered the low season because of the "the wet", an aptly named period when flooding can be of Biblical proportions.  It's generally when the Outback receives huge quantities of rain, as was just experienced last week in Darwin where flooding there was catastrophic.

Except for shallow indentions in the long and seemingly never-ending two-lane roads, the asphalt is as flat as Australian road kill, of which there is plenty.  That is also where two different kinds of signs are posted.  The first type is a single marker in each direction that indicates the area is prone to flooding at least two meters or more than six feet during "the wet".  It was hard to imagine that such vast flat areas could be covered in water to that depth, but many told us that it was a conservative estimate even during years with normal rainfall.  The second sign is to warn of crocodiles year round, but especially during "the wet".

Like the U.S. and South Africa, Australia has a large number of national parks.  We camped at many, and were constantly amazed at the sheer size and diversity.  We visited several as we drove south to Alice Springs, which is located at almost the geographic center of the country.  The national parks included Litchfield, Kakadu and Katherine Gorge.  Each was unique in it's own way and offered breathtaking scenery, camping amenities and a wide array of activities including hiking, canoeing and guided tours.

An anomaly only found in very desolate places around the world is something called Road Trains.  They consist of a very powerful truck (over the road tractor), which pulls three and sometimes four trailers at once.  The Road Trains in Australia carry everything from cattle to sheep to fuel to consumer goods.

Seeing a Road Train in the rear view mirror is extremely intimidating.  They start as a tiny speck in the distance and quickly fill the entire viewing area as it approaches.  Some operate during the day, but most travel at night because there is less traffic and no speed limits or at least no one to enforce them.  However, there are consequences to this as well, as the local wildlife populations and free-ranging domesticated animals pay the ultimate price.  All the trucks are fitted with a "Roobar", which is a massive frame usually fabricated from lengths of two-inch steel pipe that is welded and formed over the grill, lights and sometimes windshields of the trucks.  As a result, the drivers smash into any unfortunate creature that crosses their path and "keep on truckin".  The sides of the roads are littered with the carcasses of dead wallabies, kangaroos, wild pigs and cattle.

The thought of overtaking one is out of the question, at least for an overloaded hippy van.  There were signs posted stating that the driver doing the overtaking must allow nearly one mile to pass.  Signs are also posted warning that the Road Trains in the Northern Territory can be up to 53.5 meters in length, which is approximately 175 feet.  To put it in perspective, the hippy van we were driving was approximately 15 feet long.  Therefore, a Road Train in the Northern Territory was equal to nearly12 van lengths.  In addition, the van had a four-cylinder engine, so you can understand my reluctance to attempt to pass one of the leviathans of the open road.

Our destination in the Outback was Uluru, also known as Ayers Rock.  It is one of the world's largest monoliths, and is a sacred site for the local aborigines.  This massive rust-colored rock can be seen for more than fifty miles as drivers approach it.  To visit Uluru is truly a spiritual experience and one that no visitor ever forgets.

And remember, "Travel is the ultimate education."

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